Travel to Kyrgyzstan a Challenge, But Each Year Brings Improvements: Slowly but Surely, the "Wild East" Learns to Welcome Visitors

Last month I took my seventh trip to Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan. I hadn't visited the country in a few years, and I'm pleased to report that the immigration and customs process was smoother than ever. There are no direct flights to Kyrgyzstan from the United States. Most Americans reach Kyrgyzstan by way of Aeroflot, BMI, or Turkish Airlines, transiting through their respective countries. I chose Turkish Airlines since I'm familiar with Ataturk Airport in Istanbul and have the benefit of Star Alliance Gold status.

I flew to Istanbul out of JFK Airport in New York and had a five hour layover at Ataturk. Turkish Airlines has really come a long way in terms of service and amenities. Their planes are new and the service, food, and overall experience is comparable to Western European carriers. Once in Istanbul, I headed to the Turkish Airlines lounge, which was the finest Star Alliance lounge I've ever visited. After walking in, there was a billiard room with a large pool table and shelves with a variety of coffee table books.

Walking onward, the main lounge area had a great selection of comfortable seats. From relaxing chairs and couches to café style tables, the seating arrangement was suitable to everyone. A self playing piano adorned the middle of the space. The lounge featured hot food cooked to order, and several bar stations with beer, wine, and soft drinks. International newspapers were plentiful and flat screen televisions relayed the day's news.

After relaxing for a few hours, I started walking to the boarding area. I was a bit nervous when the Turkish Airlines representative said that she would be checking passports and visas. Although I could have gotten a visa at the Kyrgyz consulate in New York, I was traveling and couldn't leave my passport overnight. Luckily, Kyrgyzstan permits travelers from the United States and most Western European countries the opportunity to purchase visas at Manas Airport.

When I approached the Turkish Airlines representative, she gave me a bewildered look as I told her I planned to get my visa at Manas. "Good luck with that," she said as she typed a text message to her colleague. "What are you talking about," I responded. "The Kyrgyz consulate website says that I can get a visa at Manas Airport?" "Fine," she huffed, as she dismissively handed my passport back to me. I was a bit puzzled, but boarded the flight as planned. In my past travels to Kyrgyzstan, I never had problems getting into the country. However, this was the first time I opted to purchase a visa at the airport, after I had arrived.

The flight to Bishkek was mostly Kyrgyz citizens returning from shopping junkets in Istanbul. There were a few American servicemen going to Manas Airbase, and a group of Dutch men going on a hunting trip in the Kyrgyz backwoods. I slept most of the flight, but was awakened by the rough landing at Manas Airport. Bishkek landings are always bumpy, given the coarse condition of the runway.

Upon exiting the plane, three Kyrgyz police officers were waiting, eyeing the passengers. Although they have always been very helpful to me personally, the tall Soviet style hats make them look intimidating. I walked into the immigration area and was relieved to find a woman working at the visa window. During the flight, I wondered if I would be able to purchase a visa at landing (3AM) or if I would have to wait until normal business hours, the next day. As I approached, I took a visa application and filled out basic biographical information. When I finished, I handed the application to the visa woman with my passport. I was shocked when she returned me my passport in less than 3 minutes. I paid the fee of $70 and was on my way to the immigration officer. He proceeded to look at the visa, and then look at some of the other stamps in my passport. I could tell that he wanted to know why I traveled so much, but his English was limited. He stamped my visa, and handed me my passport without incident. While I've never personally had an issue at Manas, I know colleagues who have had problems getting into Kyrgyzstan. I've heard these problems can generally be sorted out with an extra payment, but this ambiguity remains a concern to people traveling to Kyrgyzstan.

After clearing immigration, I walked down a hallway to a Turkish Airlines representative collecting barcoded luggage tracking stickers. At JFK, they stuck the luggage tracking sticker on the ticket stub of my JFK-IST boarding pass. I had to dig through my pockets and carryon bag, but eventually I found it. I'm not sure what would have happened if it had been lost. After that, a Kyrgyz customs agent directed certain passengers to put their bags through a scanner. As I walked, he pointed to my small carryon bag. I put it on the belt, and took it out the other side without incident. There was also a metal detector set up, although the passengers weren't required to remove metals or jackets.

That was the last leg of the entry process to Kyrgyzstan. As I walked out into the terminal, throngs of drivers shouted "taxi, taxi." I kept walking as if I knew where I was going, nervously looking for my friend. A minute later, through the hoards of passengers, drivers, and police, my friend emerged. I was in Bishkek without a problem.

Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan Coat of Arms Tee Shirts by Fiedler_Mundt
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Live Like A King For Under $1000/Month in Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan!

"Where can I live like a King for under $1000 per month?"  The question is much more common than I would have thought - that was before I began my journey as a professional jetsetter.  Now I get it all the time!  Last week, I was sitting on a flight to Frankfurt going through photos of my latest journey to Kyrgyzstan.  Next thing I know, the guy sitting next to me started to ask me about the cost of living there.  That was the first thing he asked me about my trip!

I told him the great cafes and resturants were very affordable.  Entertainment and performances were frequent and top notch, with ticket price that were frugal friendly.  However, I really had no idea of the overall cost of living.  Each time I visited, I stayed at the Hyatt Hotel, which is Bishkek's only hotel that is considered "safe" by western standards.  In other words, all cars and trucks entering the premisis are checked for bombs and round the clock security is thorough and noticable.

When the guy asked me if he could live in Bishkek on $1000 per month, I was pretty sure the answer was yes, but I had no idea of the rent situation for an apartment.  Then I came across a great YouTube video explaining just that!  It was an episode of House Hunters International, and it featured a young couple who wanted to move to Bishkek to live and work.

They end up looking at three apartments, the most expensive of which is $500 per month and absolutely beautiful.  It's clear that even a small budget will go a long way in Bishkek.  $500 is out of their price range, so they end up looking at two smaller apartments and go with the cheapest at $150 per month.  $150 per month, what a deal!  The place is actually pretty posh.

After watching this episode, I was a bit shocked!  One night's room rate at the Hyatt is enough for a month's rent at amazing apartment in Bishkek!  So, it's confirmed, Kyrgyzstan is a place you can live well on $1000 per month.

Lenin Statue, Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan
by Fiedler_Mundt

The Unlikely Charm of Bishkek's Parks

I just got a message asking me what I enjoy most about traveling to Kyrgyzstan - a tough question because it's so open ended.  But after visiting Bishkek probably about 20 times over the past five years, my answer is clear.  I love the parks.  This may seem like a random answer, but the parks in
Bishkek are unlike anything else I have seen.

I first noticed the monumental trees; they are absolutely huge!  American style parks tend to be manicured lawns with scattered bushes and flowers.  Bishkek’s parks have trees that are probably 100 years old, and they tower over you.  It’s great on a hot summer’s day because the shade keeps everything cool. 

Another great thing is the people!  I know that sounds strange but hear me out.  Aside from large metropolises in America, our parks don’t really get much use.  Much of the day, they are sparsely populated.  Bishkek’s parks are a bevy of activity, from children playing to young lovers walking hand in hand and kissing, to elderly people sitting around eating ice cream. 

Although the parks have not been adequately maintained since the end of the Soviet era, Bishkek’s parks have a euphoric rustic appeal.  Most of the water fountains leak and the stone monuments are crumbling.  There are leaves everywhere and the grass is long.  But everyone is in a good mood and smiling.  The fresh air and sound of the birds singing provide a wonderful refuge!

Bishkek Wedding Palace - Soviet Architecture
by Fiedler_Mundt

Visa Requirements For Entering Kyrgyzstan

Since my last post, I got a message asking about visa procedures for entering Kyrgyzstan.  I’m glad somebody asked me, because I went through lots of needless uncertainty on my trip as well.
Here’s the bottom line: If you're a citizen of the United States or most of Western Europe, you can purchase a visa at Manas Airport.  You don’t need to go to the consulate ahead of time. 

My last visit to Bishkek was in November, and I transited through Istanbul on Turkish Airlines.  When boarding the flight to Bishkek, a Turkish Airlines representative was checking passports and visas.  I and another American didn’t go to the consulate to pre-purchase a visa.  The Turkish representative looked shocked, and was concerned that the Kyrgyz authorities wouldn't allow us into the country.  After trying to explain that we planned to purchase the visa at Manas, she made a phone call.  After some back and forth, she let us get on the plane.

Needless to say, this made me a bit nervous.  The Kyrgyz immigration agents don’t exactly have the most stellar reputation when it comes to honesty, and I was worried they would try to exploit the opportunity.

Lucky for me, I was nervous about absolutely nothing at all.  The immigration procedure was smooth.  I went up to the visa desk and handed my passport to the woman working behind it.  She handed me a form to fill out.  After I filled it out, she didn’t scrutinize it at all.  In fact she didn’t even seem to care what I had written down.   

I paid the fee in dollars, and was on my way to the immigration agent.  He was a bit theatrical when looking at my passport photo, holding it next to my fact for a better comparison.  After a solid 45 seconds of comparing, he stamped my passport.  From this point on, it was smooth sailing.  After picking up my baggage, Customs agents randomly selected one to go through the XRAY machine.  No problem, they didn't bother to search it.  I was on my way – let the vacation begin!

Here’s the exact language concerning a tourist visa to Kyrgyzstan, according to the U.S. State Department.  Keep in mind that this information changes, so check the source.

“ENTRY / EXIT REQUIREMENTS FOR U.S. CITIZENS: A passport and a visa are required. U.S. citizens can obtain a one-month single-entry, non-extendable tourist visa upon arrival at the Manas International Airport outside Bishkek for a fee of $80 without invitation or sponsorship. If purchasing a visa at the airport, at least one blank passport page is required. Travelers cannot obtain tourist visas at land borders or regional airports.”

http://travel.state.gov/travel/cis_pa_tw/cis/cis_945.html#entry_requirements

Lenin Statue, Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan Magnets by Fiedler_Mundt
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Taxi and take off from Manas Airport, Bishkek. What a rush!

I was recently on a flight from Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan to Istanbul, Turkey and I recorded the take off and put it on YouTube.  To date, it's my most popular video!  The first thing you notice when you take off or land at Manas Airport is the rough condition of the runway.  It's really brutal!  If you tried rolling a marble over the runway at Manas, you might get it to go a couple of feet before if was obstructed by all of the ruts.  In general, the airport is very slow.  Most of the activity is from the US Military, with big transport and cargo planes parked.  You can see a few in the video.

I flew into Bishkek on Turkish Airlines, and I know BMI and Aeroflot go there as well.  As far as I know, the service is not very frequent, maybe a couple of times per week.  I was pleasantly surprised to find a Star Alliance Gold lounge at Manas (associated with BMI) and the airport facilities are nice but certainly not extravagant.  That's it for now, please enjoy my taxi and takeoff video from Manas Airport, Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan!