Get out of Bishkek and head to the Tian Shan Mountains - 12 Chimneys!

Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan in the summer can get quite steamy. Hazy, Hot, and Humid are common words associated with the Kyrgyz capital during the warmer months.

The pool scene at Bishkek's Hyatt Regency was getting a bit stale, so we opted for a trip to the famed Tian Shan Mountains.

The Hyatt Bishkek used to employ a security guard who was jack of all trades. If you wanted to arrange any type of excursion, he knew who to call. For a generous tip, he would set the whole thing up, soup to nuts.

Fast forward to the van ride surrounded by sparse Kyrgyz countryside. Potholed dirt roads teetering along the edge of impossibly tall mountains made a few of us reminiscent of lazy days at the Hyatt Bishkek pool.

The further from Bishkek we got, the more nomadic the lifestyle became. Traditional yurts replaced houses and animals roamed freely, irrespective of fences.

Finally, we arrived at our destination - The 12 Chimney's Restaurant. Maybe it was the 7 Chimney's or the 5 Chimney's, it doesn't really matter.

We drank local Kyrgyz beer and even covered ourselves in wool blankets, as the temperature had dropped precipitously - all while surrounded by a fine collection of taxidermy.

High in the Kyrgyz Tian Shan Mountains, the air was crisp while the quick running stream looked clear enough to drink.

This part of Kyrgyzstan has remained much the same throughout history. The Kyrgyz people have always been great stewards of their land - pay them a visit if you please.

Tian Shan Mountains, Kyrgyzstan 2 Inch Square Magnet by Fiedler_Mundt
View additional magnets from zazzle.com.

Back in the USSR: Bishkek's Wedding Palace Architecturally Significant, Euphoric

Sitting in a posh coffee shop in Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan's University neighborhood, my Kyrgyz friend and I were suddenly interrupted by a parade of shiny Mercedes-Benz speeding through traffic, all mercilessly laying on the horn. "Is that the President's motorcade," I naively asked. She flatly responded, "No, it's a wedding," as if I was born yesterday.

As I sat there looking confused, she went on to tell me that Kyrgyz weddings were ruckus affairs, involving alcohol and legendary late night parties. A paradox, I though. Certainly not what I had in mind for this Central Asian nation that seemed so disconnected from Western boozebag culture. "My brother's wedding was the same, although we rented an American stretch limo when we left the House of Happiness."

I almost spit out my coffee with laughter. "The House of Happiness? Are you joking?" Only seconds later, I felt bad for letting my emotions get the best of me. But something about the name "House of Happiness" struck me funny. She proceeded to explain that the House of Happiness was a non denominational church-like structure used for weddings. As the Soviet Union worked to marginalize organized religion, the state built improvised cathedrals to function as wedding halls. "Take me there. I have to see the House of Happiness!" In my mind, the name was a cross between a horror movie and Disney World attraction. To my delight, she responded, "It's only a 10 minute walk, we will go."

If you love to walk, Bishkek is a wonderful city to hit the pavement. Bishkek reminds me of New York because of the constantly bustling street scene. Even at midnight or 2AM, people are hanging out, shooting the breeze and patronizing the many newsstands selling cigarettes, soda, and snacks. While this is surely a symptom of a poor economy where most people cannot afford cars, it's rather comforting to be surrounded be people all the time. Just put on a fur jacket and some warm boots, and you'll blend in just fine.

My excitement grew the closer we got. Finally, only a few blocks past Bishkek's quirky Circus building, a concrete and glass behemoth emerged from the drab surroundings. It was everything I had expected, and more. All I could do was stare with amazement, trying to make sense of it all. The Crystal Cathedral came to mind, as did the Fashion Institute of Technology campus in New York City. Put them both together and you get the House of Happiness. Unique, ugly, modern? Who knew? Somehow, it worked well and I liked it. The building was clearly old and in disrepair, with several windows shattered and stonework in poor condition. I still felt a sense of euphoria as my friend and I walked arm and arm up the steps.

We opened the door, and an old Russian man sat at a check in desk. Apparently, there were weddings scheduled for later in the day and he was working to set the place up. My friend asked if we could take some pictures. "Only in the lobby," he answered in Russian. The lobby had a huge vaulted ceiling with marble walls. Roped off was a carpet that led to the ceremony area. "Please, just ask if we can go into the main church area," I begged of my friend. She relayed my message, to which the old Russian responded, "Only the beautiful lady in white is allowed to walk on that carpet."

Feeling shafted, we peered into the church-like area. A vast round stained glass window drew my attention; the glowing sunrays making the arched structure feel warm and comforting. While the place was never a church, it does have a strange spiritual feel about it. I liked it, and although a bit worn down, I was very happy to see it still in use.

Upon our exit, my friend asked some locals to take our photo. They happily obliged, thinking that we were contemplating a wedding at the House of Happiness. As we arrived back at the hotel, I immediately jumped on Google to do some research about this amazing building. It turned out that my friend's translation was a bit off. Officially called a "Wedding Palace," the Soviet Union started building them in the late 1950's. Every Soviet Republic had one, and many were modern and extreme designs. I read that an Oligarch had purchased the Wedding Palace in Tbilisi, Georgia and is using it as his mansion. Many others still seem to be functioning as Wedding Palaces, although they now face competition from organized religion. Whatever happens, I hope that the Wedding Palace buildings will be preserved and remain open to the public, as the one in Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan is.

Lenin Statue, Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan Magnets by Fiedler_Mundt
Check out Bishkek Magnets online at zazzle

The Unlikely Charm of Bishkek's Parks

I just got a message asking me what I enjoy most about traveling to Kyrgyzstan - a tough question because it's so open ended.  But after visiting Bishkek probably about 20 times over the past five years, my answer is clear.  I love the parks.  This may seem like a random answer, but the parks in
Bishkek are unlike anything else I have seen.

I first noticed the monumental trees; they are absolutely huge!  American style parks tend to be manicured lawns with scattered bushes and flowers.  Bishkek’s parks have trees that are probably 100 years old, and they tower over you.  It’s great on a hot summer’s day because the shade keeps everything cool. 

Another great thing is the people!  I know that sounds strange but hear me out.  Aside from large metropolises in America, our parks don’t really get much use.  Much of the day, they are sparsely populated.  Bishkek’s parks are a bevy of activity, from children playing to young lovers walking hand in hand and kissing, to elderly people sitting around eating ice cream. 

Although the parks have not been adequately maintained since the end of the Soviet era, Bishkek’s parks have a euphoric rustic appeal.  Most of the water fountains leak and the stone monuments are crumbling.  There are leaves everywhere and the grass is long.  But everyone is in a good mood and smiling.  The fresh air and sound of the birds singing provide a wonderful refuge!

Bishkek Wedding Palace - Soviet Architecture
by Fiedler_Mundt