Back in the USSR: Bishkek's Wedding Palace Architecturally Significant, Euphoric

Sitting in a posh coffee shop in Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan's University neighborhood, my Kyrgyz friend and I were suddenly interrupted by a parade of shiny Mercedes-Benz speeding through traffic, all mercilessly laying on the horn. "Is that the President's motorcade," I naively asked. She flatly responded, "No, it's a wedding," as if I was born yesterday.

As I sat there looking confused, she went on to tell me that Kyrgyz weddings were ruckus affairs, involving alcohol and legendary late night parties. A paradox, I though. Certainly not what I had in mind for this Central Asian nation that seemed so disconnected from Western boozebag culture. "My brother's wedding was the same, although we rented an American stretch limo when we left the House of Happiness."

I almost spit out my coffee with laughter. "The House of Happiness? Are you joking?" Only seconds later, I felt bad for letting my emotions get the best of me. But something about the name "House of Happiness" struck me funny. She proceeded to explain that the House of Happiness was a non denominational church-like structure used for weddings. As the Soviet Union worked to marginalize organized religion, the state built improvised cathedrals to function as wedding halls. "Take me there. I have to see the House of Happiness!" In my mind, the name was a cross between a horror movie and Disney World attraction. To my delight, she responded, "It's only a 10 minute walk, we will go."

If you love to walk, Bishkek is a wonderful city to hit the pavement. Bishkek reminds me of New York because of the constantly bustling street scene. Even at midnight or 2AM, people are hanging out, shooting the breeze and patronizing the many newsstands selling cigarettes, soda, and snacks. While this is surely a symptom of a poor economy where most people cannot afford cars, it's rather comforting to be surrounded be people all the time. Just put on a fur jacket and some warm boots, and you'll blend in just fine.

My excitement grew the closer we got. Finally, only a few blocks past Bishkek's quirky Circus building, a concrete and glass behemoth emerged from the drab surroundings. It was everything I had expected, and more. All I could do was stare with amazement, trying to make sense of it all. The Crystal Cathedral came to mind, as did the Fashion Institute of Technology campus in New York City. Put them both together and you get the House of Happiness. Unique, ugly, modern? Who knew? Somehow, it worked well and I liked it. The building was clearly old and in disrepair, with several windows shattered and stonework in poor condition. I still felt a sense of euphoria as my friend and I walked arm and arm up the steps.

We opened the door, and an old Russian man sat at a check in desk. Apparently, there were weddings scheduled for later in the day and he was working to set the place up. My friend asked if we could take some pictures. "Only in the lobby," he answered in Russian. The lobby had a huge vaulted ceiling with marble walls. Roped off was a carpet that led to the ceremony area. "Please, just ask if we can go into the main church area," I begged of my friend. She relayed my message, to which the old Russian responded, "Only the beautiful lady in white is allowed to walk on that carpet."

Feeling shafted, we peered into the church-like area. A vast round stained glass window drew my attention; the glowing sunrays making the arched structure feel warm and comforting. While the place was never a church, it does have a strange spiritual feel about it. I liked it, and although a bit worn down, I was very happy to see it still in use.

Upon our exit, my friend asked some locals to take our photo. They happily obliged, thinking that we were contemplating a wedding at the House of Happiness. As we arrived back at the hotel, I immediately jumped on Google to do some research about this amazing building. It turned out that my friend's translation was a bit off. Officially called a "Wedding Palace," the Soviet Union started building them in the late 1950's. Every Soviet Republic had one, and many were modern and extreme designs. I read that an Oligarch had purchased the Wedding Palace in Tbilisi, Georgia and is using it as his mansion. Many others still seem to be functioning as Wedding Palaces, although they now face competition from organized religion. Whatever happens, I hope that the Wedding Palace buildings will be preserved and remain open to the public, as the one in Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan is.

Lenin Statue, Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan Magnets by Fiedler_Mundt
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The Unlikely Charm of Bishkek's Parks

I just got a message asking me what I enjoy most about traveling to Kyrgyzstan - a tough question because it's so open ended.  But after visiting Bishkek probably about 20 times over the past five years, my answer is clear.  I love the parks.  This may seem like a random answer, but the parks in
Bishkek are unlike anything else I have seen.

I first noticed the monumental trees; they are absolutely huge!  American style parks tend to be manicured lawns with scattered bushes and flowers.  Bishkek’s parks have trees that are probably 100 years old, and they tower over you.  It’s great on a hot summer’s day because the shade keeps everything cool. 

Another great thing is the people!  I know that sounds strange but hear me out.  Aside from large metropolises in America, our parks don’t really get much use.  Much of the day, they are sparsely populated.  Bishkek’s parks are a bevy of activity, from children playing to young lovers walking hand in hand and kissing, to elderly people sitting around eating ice cream. 

Although the parks have not been adequately maintained since the end of the Soviet era, Bishkek’s parks have a euphoric rustic appeal.  Most of the water fountains leak and the stone monuments are crumbling.  There are leaves everywhere and the grass is long.  But everyone is in a good mood and smiling.  The fresh air and sound of the birds singing provide a wonderful refuge!

Bishkek Wedding Palace - Soviet Architecture
by Fiedler_Mundt

Visa Requirements For Entering Kyrgyzstan

Since my last post, I got a message asking about visa procedures for entering Kyrgyzstan.  I’m glad somebody asked me, because I went through lots of needless uncertainty on my trip as well.
Here’s the bottom line: If you're a citizen of the United States or most of Western Europe, you can purchase a visa at Manas Airport.  You don’t need to go to the consulate ahead of time. 

My last visit to Bishkek was in November, and I transited through Istanbul on Turkish Airlines.  When boarding the flight to Bishkek, a Turkish Airlines representative was checking passports and visas.  I and another American didn’t go to the consulate to pre-purchase a visa.  The Turkish representative looked shocked, and was concerned that the Kyrgyz authorities wouldn't allow us into the country.  After trying to explain that we planned to purchase the visa at Manas, she made a phone call.  After some back and forth, she let us get on the plane.

Needless to say, this made me a bit nervous.  The Kyrgyz immigration agents don’t exactly have the most stellar reputation when it comes to honesty, and I was worried they would try to exploit the opportunity.

Lucky for me, I was nervous about absolutely nothing at all.  The immigration procedure was smooth.  I went up to the visa desk and handed my passport to the woman working behind it.  She handed me a form to fill out.  After I filled it out, she didn’t scrutinize it at all.  In fact she didn’t even seem to care what I had written down.   

I paid the fee in dollars, and was on my way to the immigration agent.  He was a bit theatrical when looking at my passport photo, holding it next to my fact for a better comparison.  After a solid 45 seconds of comparing, he stamped my passport.  From this point on, it was smooth sailing.  After picking up my baggage, Customs agents randomly selected one to go through the XRAY machine.  No problem, they didn't bother to search it.  I was on my way – let the vacation begin!

Here’s the exact language concerning a tourist visa to Kyrgyzstan, according to the U.S. State Department.  Keep in mind that this information changes, so check the source.

“ENTRY / EXIT REQUIREMENTS FOR U.S. CITIZENS: A passport and a visa are required. U.S. citizens can obtain a one-month single-entry, non-extendable tourist visa upon arrival at the Manas International Airport outside Bishkek for a fee of $80 without invitation or sponsorship. If purchasing a visa at the airport, at least one blank passport page is required. Travelers cannot obtain tourist visas at land borders or regional airports.”

http://travel.state.gov/travel/cis_pa_tw/cis/cis_945.html#entry_requirements

Lenin Statue, Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan Magnets by Fiedler_Mundt
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