Get out of Bishkek and head to the Tian Shan Mountains - 12 Chimneys!

Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan in the summer can get quite steamy. Hazy, Hot, and Humid are common words associated with the Kyrgyz capital during the warmer months.

The pool scene at Bishkek's Hyatt Regency was getting a bit stale, so we opted for a trip to the famed Tian Shan Mountains.

The Hyatt Bishkek used to employ a security guard who was jack of all trades. If you wanted to arrange any type of excursion, he knew who to call. For a generous tip, he would set the whole thing up, soup to nuts.

Fast forward to the van ride surrounded by sparse Kyrgyz countryside. Potholed dirt roads teetering along the edge of impossibly tall mountains made a few of us reminiscent of lazy days at the Hyatt Bishkek pool.

The further from Bishkek we got, the more nomadic the lifestyle became. Traditional yurts replaced houses and animals roamed freely, irrespective of fences.

Finally, we arrived at our destination - The 12 Chimney's Restaurant. Maybe it was the 7 Chimney's or the 5 Chimney's, it doesn't really matter.

We drank local Kyrgyz beer and even covered ourselves in wool blankets, as the temperature had dropped precipitously - all while surrounded by a fine collection of taxidermy.

High in the Kyrgyz Tian Shan Mountains, the air was crisp while the quick running stream looked clear enough to drink.

This part of Kyrgyzstan has remained much the same throughout history. The Kyrgyz people have always been great stewards of their land - pay them a visit if you please.

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American Tourist Visits Brutalist Kyrgyzstan Historical Museum - Bishkek.

Below is a video of the Historical Museum in Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan. I shot this video after touring the museum, an experience I would recommend to anyone visiting the Kyrgyz capital.

Before even entering the Kyrgyz Historical Museum, I was awed by the structure itself. The building can be described as Brutalist or Modernist. The United States as well as the Soviet Union embraced Brutalist architecture in the 1960's and 1970's. Brutalist architecture was efficient as well as impressive in size and scale.

The Kyrgyz Historical Museum sits on a plaza of marble, fountains, and flower gardens. Honor guards stand at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in front of the Kyrgyz Historical Museum, while a larger than life statue of Soviet founder Vladimir Lenin watches over the rear.

Walking closer to the entrance of the Kyrgyz Historical Museum, I felt diminished by the building's overwhelming presence. After lugging the heavy door open, I made my way to the reception desk. Interestingly, foreign visitors pay more than Kyrgyz citizens, but the fee was still a bargain compared to other types of entertainment.

Much of the Kyrgyz Historical Museum is devoted to the formation of the Soviet Union and the triumphs of the Decembrists. Flags of the Soviet Republics still hang from one of museum's rooms.

When Kyrgyzstan became a Republic of the Soviet Union, the country developed considerably. Railways still run from Bishkek to Moscow, and a large ethnic Russian population calls Kyrgyzstan home.

Although the Kyrgyz Museum pays tribute to its recent history as part of the Soviet Union, the much longer history is the Kyrgyz people is also on display. A full size yurt (domed style shelter) and lots of elements of traditional Kyrgyz culture were of interest to me.

As an American, the nomadic culture of the Kyrgyz people reminded me of the history of American Indians. Indeed, the early Kyrgyz people share much in common with their Wampanoag and Narragansett brethren.

As one of the fastest growing international tourist destinations, Kyrgyzstan's historical museum will undoubtedly see an increase in traffic. If you can't read Kyrgyz or Russian, it is advisable to hire a Kyrgyz tour guide, as none of the signs or displays are in English.

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Travel to Kyrgyzstan a Challenge, But Each Year Brings Improvements: Slowly but Surely, the "Wild East" Learns to Welcome Visitors

Last month I took my seventh trip to Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan. I hadn't visited the country in a few years, and I'm pleased to report that the immigration and customs process was smoother than ever. There are no direct flights to Kyrgyzstan from the United States. Most Americans reach Kyrgyzstan by way of Aeroflot, BMI, or Turkish Airlines, transiting through their respective countries. I chose Turkish Airlines since I'm familiar with Ataturk Airport in Istanbul and have the benefit of Star Alliance Gold status.

I flew to Istanbul out of JFK Airport in New York and had a five hour layover at Ataturk. Turkish Airlines has really come a long way in terms of service and amenities. Their planes are new and the service, food, and overall experience is comparable to Western European carriers. Once in Istanbul, I headed to the Turkish Airlines lounge, which was the finest Star Alliance lounge I've ever visited. After walking in, there was a billiard room with a large pool table and shelves with a variety of coffee table books.

Walking onward, the main lounge area had a great selection of comfortable seats. From relaxing chairs and couches to café style tables, the seating arrangement was suitable to everyone. A self playing piano adorned the middle of the space. The lounge featured hot food cooked to order, and several bar stations with beer, wine, and soft drinks. International newspapers were plentiful and flat screen televisions relayed the day's news.

After relaxing for a few hours, I started walking to the boarding area. I was a bit nervous when the Turkish Airlines representative said that she would be checking passports and visas. Although I could have gotten a visa at the Kyrgyz consulate in New York, I was traveling and couldn't leave my passport overnight. Luckily, Kyrgyzstan permits travelers from the United States and most Western European countries the opportunity to purchase visas at Manas Airport.

When I approached the Turkish Airlines representative, she gave me a bewildered look as I told her I planned to get my visa at Manas. "Good luck with that," she said as she typed a text message to her colleague. "What are you talking about," I responded. "The Kyrgyz consulate website says that I can get a visa at Manas Airport?" "Fine," she huffed, as she dismissively handed my passport back to me. I was a bit puzzled, but boarded the flight as planned. In my past travels to Kyrgyzstan, I never had problems getting into the country. However, this was the first time I opted to purchase a visa at the airport, after I had arrived.

The flight to Bishkek was mostly Kyrgyz citizens returning from shopping junkets in Istanbul. There were a few American servicemen going to Manas Airbase, and a group of Dutch men going on a hunting trip in the Kyrgyz backwoods. I slept most of the flight, but was awakened by the rough landing at Manas Airport. Bishkek landings are always bumpy, given the coarse condition of the runway.

Upon exiting the plane, three Kyrgyz police officers were waiting, eyeing the passengers. Although they have always been very helpful to me personally, the tall Soviet style hats make them look intimidating. I walked into the immigration area and was relieved to find a woman working at the visa window. During the flight, I wondered if I would be able to purchase a visa at landing (3AM) or if I would have to wait until normal business hours, the next day. As I approached, I took a visa application and filled out basic biographical information. When I finished, I handed the application to the visa woman with my passport. I was shocked when she returned me my passport in less than 3 minutes. I paid the fee of $70 and was on my way to the immigration officer. He proceeded to look at the visa, and then look at some of the other stamps in my passport. I could tell that he wanted to know why I traveled so much, but his English was limited. He stamped my visa, and handed me my passport without incident. While I've never personally had an issue at Manas, I know colleagues who have had problems getting into Kyrgyzstan. I've heard these problems can generally be sorted out with an extra payment, but this ambiguity remains a concern to people traveling to Kyrgyzstan.

After clearing immigration, I walked down a hallway to a Turkish Airlines representative collecting barcoded luggage tracking stickers. At JFK, they stuck the luggage tracking sticker on the ticket stub of my JFK-IST boarding pass. I had to dig through my pockets and carryon bag, but eventually I found it. I'm not sure what would have happened if it had been lost. After that, a Kyrgyz customs agent directed certain passengers to put their bags through a scanner. As I walked, he pointed to my small carryon bag. I put it on the belt, and took it out the other side without incident. There was also a metal detector set up, although the passengers weren't required to remove metals or jackets.

That was the last leg of the entry process to Kyrgyzstan. As I walked out into the terminal, throngs of drivers shouted "taxi, taxi." I kept walking as if I knew where I was going, nervously looking for my friend. A minute later, through the hoards of passengers, drivers, and police, my friend emerged. I was in Bishkek without a problem.

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Meeting a Kyrgyz World War II Veteran!

I was at a Memorial Day celebration in Boston, Massachusetts last month when I saw a group of World War II Navy Veterans hanging out together. They were all in remarkably good health and swapping stories of what it was like on their ship in the midst of the chaos. Proud of their service, they all wore identical navy blue hats embroidered with "USS Massachusetts."

That got me thinking of a man I had met while walking in Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan last year. He was a World War II veteran of the Soviet Red Army. Judging from his appearance, he was an ethnic Kyrgyz guy who served in the Red Army when Kyrgyzstan was a Soviet Republic. He must have been in his late 80's or even early 90's. Our paths crossed in one of Bishkek's many lush parks. The Red Army veteran wore a charcoal gray suit, white sneakers, and a top hat.  The suit was a bit baggy on him, probably fitted when he was a bit younger and heavier.  Nevertheless, he looked very distinguished.  What caught my eye were the numerous Soviet service medals pinned to his chest.

When I saw him, I was immediately fascinated and introduced myself. He spoke only Russian, but luckily he was accompanied by his son, who looked to be in his 40's and spoke a bit of English. The old Kyrgyz veteran was proud to explain what each metal meant, and was delighted to have his photo taken. One of his metals had Lenin's profile, which may have meant that he was a decorated Officer.

Since he didn't speak English, his son was translating between us. At first he thought I was British, but when I told him I was American, his eyes really lit up. I think I was probably the first American he had met in a very long time. We ended the conversation with a handshake, and I gave the Kyrgyz veteran a salute for good measure.

When I saw the Navy veterans in Massachusetts, I thought about the Soviet Red Army veteran I had met in Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan. For a minute, I wondered what it would be like if they could have met and the interesting things they would have talked about. Judging from the reception I got from the Kyrgyz Red Army veteran, I think he would have loved to speak about his experiences with World War II veterans from America. As a 30 year old carrying no emotional baggage of World War II or the Cold War, I would have loved to have listened to that meeting. Would there have been tension, debate, laughing, drinking?  We can only imagine, but this chance encounter really made my day!

Visa Requirements For Entering Kyrgyzstan

Since my last post, I got a message asking about visa procedures for entering Kyrgyzstan.  I’m glad somebody asked me, because I went through lots of needless uncertainty on my trip as well.
Here’s the bottom line: If you're a citizen of the United States or most of Western Europe, you can purchase a visa at Manas Airport.  You don’t need to go to the consulate ahead of time. 

My last visit to Bishkek was in November, and I transited through Istanbul on Turkish Airlines.  When boarding the flight to Bishkek, a Turkish Airlines representative was checking passports and visas.  I and another American didn’t go to the consulate to pre-purchase a visa.  The Turkish representative looked shocked, and was concerned that the Kyrgyz authorities wouldn't allow us into the country.  After trying to explain that we planned to purchase the visa at Manas, she made a phone call.  After some back and forth, she let us get on the plane.

Needless to say, this made me a bit nervous.  The Kyrgyz immigration agents don’t exactly have the most stellar reputation when it comes to honesty, and I was worried they would try to exploit the opportunity.

Lucky for me, I was nervous about absolutely nothing at all.  The immigration procedure was smooth.  I went up to the visa desk and handed my passport to the woman working behind it.  She handed me a form to fill out.  After I filled it out, she didn’t scrutinize it at all.  In fact she didn’t even seem to care what I had written down.   

I paid the fee in dollars, and was on my way to the immigration agent.  He was a bit theatrical when looking at my passport photo, holding it next to my fact for a better comparison.  After a solid 45 seconds of comparing, he stamped my passport.  From this point on, it was smooth sailing.  After picking up my baggage, Customs agents randomly selected one to go through the XRAY machine.  No problem, they didn't bother to search it.  I was on my way – let the vacation begin!

Here’s the exact language concerning a tourist visa to Kyrgyzstan, according to the U.S. State Department.  Keep in mind that this information changes, so check the source.

“ENTRY / EXIT REQUIREMENTS FOR U.S. CITIZENS: A passport and a visa are required. U.S. citizens can obtain a one-month single-entry, non-extendable tourist visa upon arrival at the Manas International Airport outside Bishkek for a fee of $80 without invitation or sponsorship. If purchasing a visa at the airport, at least one blank passport page is required. Travelers cannot obtain tourist visas at land borders or regional airports.”

http://travel.state.gov/travel/cis_pa_tw/cis/cis_945.html#entry_requirements

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