Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan in the summer can get intense. Hazy, hot, and uncomfortably humid—these are the words that define the Kyrgyz capital during the warmer months.
Eventually, the pool scene at the Hyatt Regency Bishkek was getting a bit stale, so we decided to escape the city heat and head for the famed Tian Shan Mountains.
Back then, the Hyatt Bishkek employed a security guard who was a true jack-of-all-trades. If you wanted to organize any excursion beyond the city limits, he was the man who knew who to call. For a generous tip, he would handle the entire setup—soup to nuts.
Fast forward to our ride out: a passenger van rolling through the sparse Kyrgyz countryside. As we bumped along potholed dirt roads that teetered precariously on the edges of impossibly tall mountain passes, more than a few of us started reminiscing fondly about the safety of those lazy days back at the hotel pool.
The farther we traveled from Bishkek, the more traditional and nomadic the landscape became. Brick houses gave way to white felt yurts, and livestock roamed freely across open fields, completely unbothered by fences.
Finally, we reached our destination: 12 Chimneys (or maybe it was 7 Chimneys, or 5—the exact count didn't really matter once we arrived).
Up in the high altitudes of the Tian Shan range, the mountain air was impossibly crisp, and the rushing streams ran so clear they looked good enough to drink straight from the source. The shift in temperature was dramatic.
Before long, we were sipping cold local Kyrgyz beers while wrapped in heavy wool blankets to stave off the sudden mountain chill—all while surrounded by an eclectic indoor collection of local taxidermy.
This corner of Central Asia has remained largely unchanged through the centuries. The Kyrgyz people have always been exceptional stewards of their wild, rugged landscapes. If you ever get the chance, pay them a visit—just make sure to head for the mountains.
